The potato originally evolved in mountainous country with poor soil, and still grows best in such places. In the Canary Islands, which are perfect for growing potatoes because of their ancient volcanic soil, numerous potato varieties grow that can be found nowhere else. Among the locals, the papas arrugadas technique is one of the most popular ways to treat them.
Papas arrugadas translates from the Spanish as “wrinkly potatoes”. This traditional dish is possibly descended from older versions popular among the local Guache fishermen and other people who work near the water. The potatoes were boiled in a bucket of sea water, then drained and steamed dry in such a way as to keep a light crust of salt on the potatoes.
After that, treatments vary from cook to cook: but one favorite way with arrugadas is to sauce them liberally with a spicy salsa called mojo. Recipes vary, but most involve vinegar, olive oil, and lots of hot chiles. When served this way, the dish is called Mojos canarion.
These days papas arrugadas is one of the best-known Canarian dishes, which almost every visitor to the Canary Islands is likely to run into sooner or later. It has spread widely through Spain, where it’s a favorite as bar food, a side dish, or served as part of an array of tapas.
Scrub the potatoes well. Put a few inches of water in a heavy pot — just enough to cover the potatoes. Add the salt. Bring to a boil and add the potatoes. Cover with a dishtowel / teacloth and boil gently for twenty minutes. (If the potatoes are to be served with a mojo sauce, prepare it now.)
At the end of twenty minutes, drain off almost all the water and return the pot and potatoes to low heat, allowing them to steam dry and form a light salt crust. If serving with a mojo, pour it over the potatoes, toss lightly, and serve.
(If for some reason the salt crust refuses to form, you can help it by dumping the cooked potatoes out onto a baking sheet, preheating the oven to about 200 C / 400 F. putting the potatoes in, and immediately lowering the temperature to about 100 C / 200 F. In between half an hour and an hour, the potatoes will develop the salty crust without losing any of their tenderness.
A typical salsa mojo picon (spicy mojo sauce):
Pound the dry ingredients in a mortar: add the garlic and pound some more. Add the oil and vinegar: mix well. Pour over the potatoes when ready.
For a green mojo: use only green chiles, and add finely chopped parsley and coriander leaves. You can also include avocado for a creamier texture (but omit the breadcrumbs).
